What's the Best Metal for Your Jewelry? Jewelry Metals Explained

Selecting a piece of jewelry can be an overwhelming process because there are many decisions to make, from the design to the choice of the gemstone. One of the main decisions you’ll need to make is your metal choice. Not only will this determine the appearance of the jewelry, but it can also determine the durability and longevity of it. There are many different metal choices to choose from, each with its own pros and cons. Understanding the terminology used for metals and the differences between them will help you to make an informed decision for your next jewelry purchase.

The majority of fine jewelry is created using precious metals such as gold, platinum, and silver. Typically pure versions of these metals cannot be used for a variety of reasons. In their pure states, these metals are incredibly expensive and very fragile. They are often mixed with other metals to create alloys that provide your jewelry with added strength and different color options (in the case of gold: white, yellow, rose, green, etc).The alloy used will influence other things, such as quality and price.

What is a Karat?

Karats (abbreviated with K or kt) measure the purity of gold. 24 karat gold is 100% pure gold, with no other metals present. Although this is the brightest yellow version of gold, it is too soft to be used in jewelry, since jewelry will be worn and must last the test of time. Pure gold is very fragile and can be easily damaged. Therefore, 24 karat gold is often mixed with other metals to create an alloy. This is how gold is used in most modern jewelry.

24K: 100% pure gold. In this state, the metal is a very bright yellow and very soft.
18K: 75% gold and 25% other metals. 18K gold is often used in fine jewelry, but is still a bit soft to be worn on a daily basis. It is a rich yellow color.
14K: 58.3% gold and 41.7% other metals. 14K is the most popular choice for fine jewelry, including engagement rings and wedding bands. It still has a beautiful color, but is also durable enough to withstand daily wear and strong enough to hold precious gemstones.
10K: 41.7% gold and 58.3% other metals. 10K is the minimum gold content to legally be called gold in the United States. It is a harder metal, but is not often used in fine jewelry. It has a much more muted color tone than higher karat metals.

What is an Alloy?

An alloy is a mixture of metals. Alloys are used in fine jewelry in order to make pure metals stronger and also change their color. Specifically with gold, and depending upon the karat, different percentages of alloy vs. metal are mixed together.

Yellow Gold: Yellow gold is created by mixing 24 karat gold with copper and zinc.
White Gold: White gold is created by mixing 24 karat gold with either palladium (which creates a hypoallergenic metal for people who are allergic to nickel), nickel, or silver. White gold has a white hue, but to achieve the bright white color, it is often plated with rhodium and will need to be re-plated every so often depending upon the skin chemistry of the wearer.
Rose Gold: Rose gold is created by mixing 24 karat gold with copper, which gives the metal a pink hue.
Green Gold: Green gold is created by mixing 24 karat gold and silver, which gives the metal a slightly green tint, but looks very close to yellow gold.

What is a Stamp?

A stamp is a small indentation on a piece of jewelry–typically in a hidden area–that indicates the metal content, as well as the manufacturer or brand of the jewelry.

Metal Stamps: These let the customer know the purity of gold used to create the jewelry.
24K: 100% pure gold.
18K: 75% gold, sometimes also stamped as 750
14K: 58.3% gold, sometimes also stamped as 585
10K: 41.7% gold, sometimes also stamped as 417
Platinum: PLAT, PT, or 950 (which means 95% pure platinum).
Silver: 925, which is sterling silver.

What about Platinum and Palladium?

Platinum is one of the most popular metals used for fine jewelry because it is very durable. It is a naturally white metal, so it doesn’t require any rhodium plating, and it is hypoallergenic. Platinum used in fine jewelry is 950 platinum, which is 95% pure platinum.

Palladium is similar to platinum, but is more difficult for jewelers to work with due to how fragile it can be. It tends to crack easily and is complicated to repair. It is a lower cost option to platinum, which has made it popular within the past several years.

Is Silver Suitable for Fine Jewelry?

While some fine jewelry is crafted using sterling silver (925), silver is a very soft metal. It is therefore not recommended for daily wear jewelry.

What About Those Terms Often Used to Describe Gold?

There are some terms used in jewelry descriptions that can be glossed over if consumers don’t understand exactly what they mean. They are very important to understand so you know exactly what you are purchasing. For example:

Vermeil: Vermeil is sterling silver jewelry that is coated with a thick layer of gold. This is more than just gold plating and can last longer than gold plated jewelry.

Gold Plated: Gold plated jewelry is when a thin plating of gold covers a piece of jewelry crafted from base metal. This plating can wear off over time, but gold plated jewelry is a low cost option if gold is not within your budget.

Gold Filled: Gold filled jewelry is when gold is bonded to a base metal, but it must be at least 5% of the jewelry’s weight. It will last longer than gold plated jewelry, but doesn’t carry the same cost as a completely gold piece of jewelry.

How Do You Properly Clean Different Jewelry Metals?

To properly care for your fine jewelry, make sure to clean each piece according to what type of metal it is. Gold, platinum, and palladium can be cleaned by soaking it in a solution of dish soap and warm water, and if necessary, you can gently scrub it with a soft bristled toothbrush. Silver can be cleaned similarly but will also require polishing with a silver polishing cloth to remove the tarnish that can develop over time. It is best to avoid wearing your jewelry when you will be exposed to chemicals such as cleaning, showering, or swimming. This will keep your metals looking bright and shiny for longer periods of time and also avoid damage to the stones.

Selecting the right metal for your fine jewelry is a delicate decision that will determine the beauty and longevity of your jewelry. Each type of metal and alloy can bring different strengths and colors to your jewelry, and some are more appropriate than others for daily wear due to their durability. Now that you are well versed on metal choices and terminology, you are informed and ready to shop for that special purchase.