What are the different types of jewelry chains?

When selecting a chain for a bracelet, necklace, or pendant, there are almost endless options. Each type of chain has specific characteristics in terms of the style, how it’s manufactured, and durability, just to name a few. There are jewelry industry specific terms used that may make it difficult for the average consumer to understand what exactly they’re purchasing, so we have compiled an overview of the most common types of jewelry chains and what to consider before purchasing one. We will also review what certain terms mean so you’re fully informed before making a purchase.

Cable Chain

The cable chain is one of the most common chains because it is simple and versatile. It is made up of round or oval links that connect together and is available in many different link sizes–with the larger links tending to be stronger simply due to the amount of material used. This type of chain is sometimes worn alone, but more often than not it is used for a pendant. Cable chains are also popular for wrist and ankle bracelets and hold charms easily since they can be connected to the individual links.

Curb Chain

The curb chain is composed of flat links that are connected closely together and which lay flat on the skin when worn. This chain is popular in men’s jewelry and is a durable option in thicker variations. Thick versions of the curb chain are often worn alone as a statement piece by men, while thinner versions are used for women’s jewelry to hold pendants.

Figaro Chain

The figaro chain is similar to the curb chain, but is connected in a pattern of three short links and then one long link. This pattern continues around the entire chain and provides dimension to the design. Thick versions of the figaro chain are often worn by men because they have a more masculine look.

Rope Chain

The rope chain is made of twisted links that form the appearance of a rope. This is a fairly durable design, but can catch and break on fabric if there is any unknown damage to the chain. Rope chains are often used for standalone bracelets as well.

Box Chain

The box chain is composed of square shaped links that look like small connected boxes. It is a sturdy option in larger sizes for pendants because the construction of the link makes for a strong chain.

Snake Chain

The snake chain is made of flat plate links that are connected very closely together, resulting in a smooth look. This chain is often used in women’s jewelry for formal pieces, perhaps that are not worn as often. This chain is flexible but very delicate and can easily get kinked or break. The breaks in this chain are also quite difficult to repair, so care needs to be taken when worn.

Herringbone Chain

The herringbone chain has flat links that are in the shape of a V and arranged opposite each other to create a unique pattern. This chain, similarly to the snake chain, is delicate and can kink and break easily.

Hollow vs. Solid

Regardless of the style, chains can be made hollow or solid. Chains that are hollow are lightweight and the links do not have metal inside (hence the name). These chains are comfortable to wear, but are not very strong and are prone to breakage. Once broken, hollow chains can prove difficult to repair because getting the shape just right is often a challenge. They also dent easily, which can be a precursor to further damage. Hollow chains are convenient for a lower budget, but purchasing one does come with the risk of a lack of durability.

Solid chains contain metal throughout each solid link, which makes them heavier and possibly not as comfortable to wear. Because of their construction, solid chains are much stronger than their hollow counterparts and can hold up better to daily wear. While they can still break, repairs are not as complicated.

It’s not only the hollow vs. solid construction that can determine the strength of a chain, but also the thickness. The smaller the links on the chain, the less durable it will be. Thinner chains are not suitable to hold pendants, especially heavy ones. When choosing a chain for a pendant, we would recommend discussing with your jeweler to make sure that the chain you choose can properly hold the pendant. This will not only ensure the durability of your chain, but also the safety of your pendant so it doesn’t get lost.

When shopping for chains, be sure to look closely at the tag and the description of the chain because it could contain terms you’re not familiar with that can be overlooked. Understanding these terms can be crucial to making sure you’re purchasing the item you truly want. There will be chains that are all silver or all gold, but these terms below would apply to any chains that fall outside of that category.

Gold Plated

Gold plated chains are made by using a base metal to create the chain itself and then plating it with a thin layer of gold. These chains tend to be much less expensive than typical gold chains, but be aware that the plating can wear off over time and may need to be re-plated.

Vermeil

Vermeil is a good option for budget conscious shoppers because it offers the look of gold without the price tag. A vermeil chain is made of silver and then coated with a thick layer of gold (thicker than gold plated jewelry), so it lasts longer and is more durable than gold plated chains. 

Gold Filled

Gold filled chains are somewhere in the middle in terms of durability and price. For a chain to qualify as gold filled, it must contain at least 5% gold.

Additional Considerations

The length and width of the chain you choose can also affect how it wears over time. Wider chains are more often worn alone, whereas thinner chains are meant to be worn with pendants or other charms. The typical chain length for the average woman is 16 inches, whereas men tend to choose longer lengths, such as 30 inches. You can also layer chains of different lengths and link types for a more stylized look.

Purchasing a chain can be a confusing process because of how many options there are to choose from. But with a little bit of research and knowing what style you prefer, it becomes a lot easier. Each style of chain has its advantages and disadvantages, but there’s sure to be one that perfectly fits your purpose. Pay attention to the construction, materials, and durability of the chain you’re choosing to ensure its longevity while also fitting your budget.