The Resurgence of Fancy Shaped Diamonds

When someone says “fancy shaped diamond,” they aren’t referring to a top secret special diamond. They would usually be referring to any diamond other than round brilliant cut.

Fancy shaped diamonds come in many different varieties and have become popular on and off during different fashion trends over the decades. They each have their own specific appeal and can bring a different design aesthetic to an engagement ring or other jewelry design. They are perfect for the person who prefers something different than the traditional round brilliant cut diamond and wants to embrace a unique design or highlight a special attribute about a specific shaped diamond.

Princess Cut Diamonds

The princess cut is one of the most popular choices of fancy shaped diamonds and is often featured in engagement ring advertisements or displayed in jewelry stores. It typically has 57 or 76 facets, giving it a dazzling sparkle. The facets in a princess cut are similar to those in a round brilliant cut, enhancing the light return and making these diamonds sparkle more than others in the same category. Developed in the 1960s and reaching peak popularity in the 1980s, the princess cut has remained a popular choice for modern engagement rings. Its versatility allows it to be used in a variety of settings, including solitaire, halo, and three-stone rings. However, because the princess cut has sharp corners, it needs to be set with v-tip prongs to prevent chipping. The v-tip prongs protect the corners of the diamond, ensuring it remains undamaged over time.

Cushion Cut Diamonds

The cushion cut, which has a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and curved sides, is often referred to as a "pillow cut." Typically, cushion cut diamonds have 58 facets, though this can vary depending on the specific shape and the expertise of the stone cutter. This fancy shape dates back to the 19th century and was popular during Victorian times, but has had a recent resurgence in popularity over the last decade due to the uptick in antique trends.

Oval Cut Diamonds

The oval cut diamond was discovered by a Russian diamond cutter in the 1950s and has had varying popularity ever since. It is characterized by an elongated round shape that can appear larger than the carat weight indicates, which is a huge plus for engagement rings. Oftentimes the goal is to get the largest possible stone–with an oval cut this can be a little bit easier! This fancy shaped diamond can also make fingers appear longer and thinner (another plus for engagement rings).

Marquise Cut Diamonds

Similar in visual appearance to the oval cut diamond, the marquise cut is also elongated. However, instead of having rounded edges, it comes to a point at each end, which also helps to make fingers appear longer and thinner. It was discovered in France during the 18th century, but first became popular in the 1960s and continued through the 1980s. While not as commonly seen in engagement rings today, there are plenty of 1980s inspired designs that would beautifully accommodate a marquise cut. It’s important to keep in mind that because the marquise cut has sharp corners, it is best to set this shape with v-tip prongs to protect the corners from damage.

Radiant Cut Diamonds

The radiant cut diamond is one of the newer fancy cuts, developed in the 1970s by Henry Grossbard. With 70 facets, it combines the look of a round brilliant cut and an emerald cut. Featuring a geometric square or rectangular shape and trimmed corners, it has great brilliance. The radiant cut is seen most often in modern designs, and part of its popularity stems from the additional facets being a convenient way to hide inclusions.

Emerald Cut Diamonds

The emerald cut engagement ring has been the most popular diamond in recent celebrity engagements, which has boosted its popularity in the general public. It features step cut facets and a large table, which creates a hall of mirrors effect, though not much sparkle. With 58 facets, this cut focuses more on clarity, so it’s best to make sure you get an emerald cut with a high clarity grade or the inclusions are likely to be visible. Emerald cut diamonds were discovered during the Art Deco period and gained popularity in the 1920s and 1930s. Often used as statement stones, emerald cut diamonds have been spotted in engagement rings on the hands of Paris Hilton, Anne Hathaway, and Mariah Carey.

Asscher Cut Diamonds

The Asscher cut, which is essentially a square version of the emerald cut, has 58 step cut facets, but reflects light well and has great brilliance. Originally discovered in the early 1900s by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, this fancy cut also gained popularity during the Art Deco period. In 2001, the Asscher cut was further refined into the Royal Asscher cut, featuring 74 facets for even greater brilliance. You will often see Asscher cut diamonds in three stone ring designs, flanked by a matched pair of Asschers, or in a halo setting surrounded by round diamonds, which enhances the visual appearance of the stone to look much larger than it actually is.

Pear Shaped Diamonds

One of the least popular of the fancy shapes for engagement rings is the pear shaped diamond, which has a rounded bottom and a pointed top. This shape was discovered in the 15th century and was most popular during the 1950s. It is a combination of the round brilliant cut and the marquise. Due to its elongated shape, it can also make fingers appear longer and thinner. This shape has great sparkle and is a terrific option for those wanting an asymmetrical engagement ring. It’s been seen in jewelry worn by Elizabeth Taylor and Victoria Beckham.

Heart Shaped Diamonds

The heart shaped diamond is another fancy shape option, although not often chosen for engagement rings. It has between 56 to 59 facets, depending on the cutter. While it is a romantic choice, it doesn’t have the best sparkle of all the fancy shapes. It was very popular during the 1990s, when heart shaped jewelry was at peak popularity, but has since waned. It certainly is a choice for anyone trying to make a statement about their strong feelings toward the recipient.

Fancy shaped diamonds are a fun way to create a unique engagement ring beyond the traditional round brilliant cut. Each fancy shape has enjoyed popularity during one time or another. Since trends tend to come back around, they are sure to be popular once again in due time. Armed with the knowledge of the history of each fancy cut and the aspects that make them unique, you can make an informed decision of which shape you fancy (pun intended).

Whether you prefer the timelessness of the emerald cut or the quirky marquise, your engagement ring will certainly express your personal style if you opt for a fancy shaped diamond.