7 essential questions to ask your jeweler when buying an engagement ring
Even after you’ve asked yourself all the necessary personal questions that need to be answered before beginning engagement ring shopping, there are likely to be more questions to be answered. The outstanding questions are usually best answered by a professional jeweler. Internet research is great but there is no substitute for speaking with a trustworthy professional.
So before you fire up that web chat or Google search, we'd recommend visiting your local jewelry store. To begin, make a list of the specific questions you'd like answered in order to feel fully informed before making that important purchase. In case you need help identifying the most pertinent questions, we've compiled a list of 7 important questions to ask your jeweler.
1. Can I see the diamond grading report?
A diamond grading report is a document that covers all of the detailed information about a diamond and its characteristics. The first thing to notice is the report number, which is a unique combination of letters and numbers that is typically engraved on the girdle of the diamond (note that no two are identical). This engraving allows for the diamond to be easily identified using a jeweler's loupe during inspection, repair, etc. This report will contain information such as diamond shape, dimensions in millimeters, carat weight, and proportions. This can assist you in determining what cut grade the diamond has.
The most important part of the grading report for most people is the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. The cut grade is determined by the diamond's proportions, while the color grade regards the presence or absence of color, ranging from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Clarity measures how free the diamond is from internal inclusions and external blemishes, with higher clarity grades usually commanding higher prices. Inclusions can vary in form, such as pinpoints, feathers, or clouds, and each type is mapped on the grading report to help identify the diamond. These inclusions can affect both the appearance and durability of the diamond.
Other notable aspects of the diamond grading report include polish, symmetry, and fluorescence. Polish can affect how much light the diamond reflects and symmetry refers to how the diamond's facets are aligned, which can determine how much it sparkles. Presence or absence of fluorescence will determine if the diamond will glow under UV light, which is simply a personal preference since it doesn’t greatly affect the diamond’s appearance under regular lighting.
With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, most grading labs certify both mined and lab grown options. When your jeweler shows you the diamond grading report, it’s important to note which lab it comes from. When choosing a grading lab, consider factors like the lab's reputation, the turnaround time for certifications, and the level of detail provided in their reports. Some reputable labs are GIA, IGI, AGS, and GCAL.
2. What metal option is best?
When selecting the metal for your engagement ring, you can ask yourself which color metal you’d like, but your jeweler will be able to explain the main differences between the metals in more detail. Your metal choice affects more than just the appearance of your ring; it affects the durability, the type of maintenance it will require, and even the weight of the ring.
Gold is a classic and popular choice for engagement rings. It comes in several varieties: 14kt and 18kt, which differ in terms of purity and hardness. 14kt gold is more durable for everyday wear due to its lower content of pure (24kt) gold (which is very soft), while 18kt gold is softer since it contains a higher percentage of pure gold. Gold is available in several colors including white, yellow, rose, and even green gold. Each of these colors is made by combining pure 24kt gold with different metals such as copper and nickel to create an alloy.
Platinum is another popular option for engagement rings, as it is known for its durability and strength. It's especially recommended for rings with larger center stones, as it provides a secure setting. Platinum is heavier than gold, which can be felt when worn; this can be seen as a positive or negative depending upon personal preference of the wearer. Platinum is a naturally white metal and it does not tarnish over time, so it requires polishing but no plating to keep the natural color.
3. What is the ring’s setting style?
When choosing an engagement ring, the setting style is a very important aspect that can affect the way the ring looks and the safety of the stone. It is best if your jeweler can show you examples of each setting style and how they are beneficial (or not) for the stone you have chosen for your ring. Some popular setting styles include prong setting, which uses metal claws to secure the stone, and bezel setting, where a thin metal rim surrounds part or all of the stone for maximum protection.
For side diamonds, a popular settings style is pavé, which is many small diamonds set close together to cover the surface area of the metal, and provides maximum sparkle. Another option–considered a modern choice– is channel setting, which is where diamonds are set in between two grooves of metal. Once you see the different options in person, you can evaluate which is most suited to your partner’s lifestyle and personal style choices.
4. Can the ring be resized if needed?
This is an important question to ask your jeweler because each jeweler has a different policy and comfort zone for whether (and how much) a ring can be sized while still maintaining the integrity of the design. It’s best to try and get as close as possible to your partner’s ring size to avoid sizing the ring too much in either direction.
Your jeweler can suggest methods to best determine your partner’s ring size in a stealth manner, but we recommend reaching out to family or friends for assistance on this one. Jewelers understand that it’s nearly impossible to get the size perfect, so they’re typically open to sizing up or down slightly free of charge after the proposal.
5. Can the ring be customized?
Each jeweler is different. Some offer customization and some don’t. There are some stores who only have the items they have in the case and one jeweler who can set your center stone. Others may have a shop with many jewelers and a wide range of skills. If you want a custom ring, it’s best to do a good deal of research and select a jeweler who has the ability to do custom designs.
When designing a custom ring, experienced jewelers will guide you through the process and discuss design, metal choice, stone choice, etc. The custom design process typically involves several steps: design consultation, wax model creation, casting in the chosen metal, stone setting, polishing, and quality control. The entire process typically takes 4 - 6 weeks, so planning ahead is very important.
6. What is the price of the ring, and is there flexibility in the budget?
Each jeweler prices their products differently and depending upon each individual aspect of the ring you want, the price can vary greatly. Most jewelers are willing to work with you to fit the cost of the ring into your budget via various adjustments (center stone size, metal choice, etc.). Just be honest and let the jeweler know what your comfort zone is for price, so you don’t spend valuable time looking at stones or rings that may not be a good fit for you.
7. How long will it take to receive the ring?
If you’re selecting a ring straight out of the case at a jewelry store, you could walk out with it the same day. If you’re ordering a custom ring, it could take 4 - 6 weeks to complete, but this can vary depending upon the jeweler. During your consultation, make sure you ask specific questions about the timeline. Understand what your responsibility is, so you don’t hold up the process because you haven’t given a deposit or approved one of the steps. If there are any changes during the process, this could add more time, so it's always best to plan ahead and start the process early.
Before shopping for an engagement ring, prepare a list of questions for your jeweler to answer before you place your order. Make sure you ask for details about the diamond 4Cs, metal choice, and budget. These suggestions for questions are just a starting point and you can certainly add in your own to make sure you’re comfortable with your purchase. By addressing these details early, you'll ensure a smoother, more satisfying ring buying experience.