How to Repurpose and Transform Antique Family Jewelry

Oftentimes family jewelry is passed down through generations. Sometimes the jewelry is classic, in wonderful condition, and can continue to be worn. But what happens when it’s not wearable any longer? Sometimes it is not sturdy enough, or it has cracks in the metal or stones. Other times it is simply not your desired style. You of course have the option of preserving the jewelry as-is, in a drawer for sentimental purposes, or you can design something new with it. If that’s your desired route, there are many things to think about, which can seem overwhelming. However, with some professional guidance, you may be surprised to learn there are actually various options at your disposal.

Step 1: Get your antique jewelry assessed

Before making any decisions on what to do with your antique family jewelry, it should be assessed by a professional jeweler. You’ll want to know specifics about the condition it’s in. You may want to start by asking questions such as:

1. What is the condition of the stones? Can they be reused? Are any of them beyond salvageable?
2. What is the condition of the metal? Can you test it? Could you incorporate the existing metal into a new piece of jewelry? If so, would there be any downsides to doing this?
3. Is it in good enough shape that it makes sense to repair it? If so, how long would the repair last realistically? Is the repair cost close to what it would cost to make a new piece?

Step 2: Choose the right jeweler for the job

If it is determined that the best route would be to create a new piece of jewelry, you need to make sure the jeweler you choose is capable of handling antique pieces with care. Start by reading plenty of testimonials or online reviews to gauge the experiences of other customers. This can give you valuable insights into the quality of work and customer service provided by different jewelers. In addition to online research, take the time to call or chat online with potential jewelers to ask questions and discuss your ideas. This initial interaction can help you determine their level of expertise and willingness to understand your ideas.

If possible, visit the jeweler in person. Seeing their shop and meeting the staff can provide a better sense of their experience and you can see samples of their previous work to see if it aligns with what you have in mind.

Feeling comfortable with your jeweler is crucial. You should feel confident in their abilities and comfortable discussing your ideas and concerns. A master jeweler with many years of experience will be confident in their skills and have the necessary experience to ask the right questions in order to better understand exactly what you are looking for. These questions might cover your style preferences, the sentimental aspects of the antique piece, your budget, and any specific design elements you wish to incorporate. Moreso the jeweler can offer suggestions that you may not have considered, simply due to their understanding of jewelry that the everyday person doesn’t have. They should be able to provide sketches to help you visualize the final product, allowing for adjustments before the actual work begins.

Step 3: Ask the right questions

Even if you have a vague idea of what you’re looking for in your custom design, there are some specific questions to consider:

1. What type of jewelry do you want? Are you looking for a ring, pendant, bracelet, earrings, pin, etc? There are many options to choose from.
2. What type of design are you interested in?
3. What metal do I want it made in? This is important because there are several different options to choose from:

• Of course gold [14kt and 18kt (which is the softer of the two options)]. It's available in white, yellow, and rose gold typically. Some jewelers even offer green gold, which looks very similar to yellow with just a very slight hint of green.
• Platinum, which is a very sturdy metal and is often recommended when setting larger stones. It does tend to feel heavier than gold, so keep that in mind when making your decision.
• Some jewelers do offer alternative metals, although they are not usually recommended, as they are more difficult to work with and can create problems during the production process.

This is when you will meet with the jeweler to discuss all of the previous questions. You should expect to be provided with a sketch for approval before moving on to the next step.

Step 4: Work with what you have

The design you choose will ultimately be guided by what you have to work with. If the goal is to preserve the sentimentality of the antique family jewelry, you should aim to use as much of it as possible. If you’re able to reuse all of the stones, that would be ideal, but it doesn’t mean that you can’t add more stones. If the existing piece doesn’t have as many stones as you would ideally want, the jeweler can usually source stones that are similar in quality so it looks cohesive.

You may also want to inquire on whether it’s possible to reuse any of the existing metal. This is a little bit more tricky than reusing stones because each jeweler uses a different alloy in their metal, so there’s no way to make sure the existing and new metal will combine well without creating porosity (bubbles in the metal that can damage the integrity of the jewelry). There are ways to test the metal to determine fairly well what was used in it, but sometimes it is safer not to use it.

Step 5: Production

Once all of your questions have been answered, you will move on to the production phase of your new jewelry. The steps will vary by jeweler, but there should be some similarities.

1. Wax model - the jeweler will carve a wax model of your design, something tangible that you can touch and see from all angles to give you an idea of what your finished piece will look like.
2. Casting - your wax model will be cast in the metal of your choice
3. Setting - any stones that you have chosen will be set according to the setting style you previously discussed with the jeweler
4. Polishing and finishing - your design will be polished to a bright finish (unless you have chosen an alternative finish such as satin, sandblast, or hammered)
5. Quality control - your design will be checked under a microscope for any loose stones, scratches, or other issues with the metal. It needs to be absolutely perfect for you!

The process of transforming antique family jewelry into a new custom piece can be a beautiful journey. Whether you decide to use as much of the original piece as possible, or just a few stones, guidance from a professional jeweler is essential. Understanding what you’re looking for, as well as the condition of the antique jewelry will determine what your options are for design. Make sure to have open communication with your jeweler throughout the process and remain open-minded to any necessary changes along the way to maintain the integrity of the design.

Ultimately, make the decision on your own timetable, as changing family heirlooms takes serious consideration and thought, so they can be personalized treasures for future generations.