The Evolution of Round Diamonds

The round diamond of today is not your mother’s round diamond. And your mother’s round diamond is not your grandmother’s round diamond.

Round diamonds have changed significantly from their original form to what we know of today as the Round Brilliant Cut diamond. These changes take many forms–cutting style, number of facets, brilliance, symmetry, etc.–and throughout the years they have had many different names. These changes are due to many societal factors such as changing styles, but the most obvious reason is the influx of technological advancements, which has made gem cutting more precise. Let’s take a journey through the history of the round cut diamond to see where it started and how it got to where it is now.

Old Mine Cut

The Old Mine Cut was discovered in the 1700s during the Victorian era and is considered the earliest of the diamond shapes. This shape looks nothing like the round diamond we know of today, but instead it had more of a cushion shape with rounded corners. It also had a high crown, small table, and a large culet (see diagram below for diamond terminology and locations). The Old Mine Cut diamond was cut by hand, so there was a lack of consistency and symmetry among the stones. The thought process for crafting them was to make them sparkle under candlelight, which was the main source of light during that time period. The Old Mine Cut diamond was often used in large jewelry such as brooches with natural themes–vines, flowers, leaves, etc.

Single Cut

The Single Cut was discovered around the same time as the Old Mine Cut, but was used primarily for smaller diamonds. This cut was made up of only 16 facets (8 on the crown and 8 on the pavilion) and can be seen in a lot of jewelry from the 18th and 19th centuries. The Single Cut diamond is not known for having intense sparkle, but was used alongside the Old Mine Cut in a lot of Victorian jewelry. If you come across any estate jewelry (pre-owned), you’re bound to come across some Single Cut diamonds, which can fairly easily be distinguished from the modern Round Brilliant Cut with the naked eye.

Old European Cut

During the late 1800s, the Old European Cut diamond was discovered, closer to the Art Deco time period. The Old European Cut diamond had a more round shape, better symmetry, and 58 facets. This cut still had the high crown and large culet, similar to the Old Mine Cut. The Art Deco period was full of intricate designs and the Old European Cut diamond fit perfectly into the aesthetic, often set in platinum, which was gaining traction during that time.

Transition Cut

In the early 1900s, the Transition Cut was the in-between cut that was developed (hence the name) between the Old European Cut and the modern Round Brilliant Cut. The Transition Cut was more symmetrical and had a lower crown and smaller culet. All of these changes led to more light reflection, which enhanced the sparkle of the stone. Jewelry became a big focus of fashion during the Art Deco period and was heavily influenced by it, with platinum and white gold pieces with the Transition Cut and rich colored gemstones.

Round Brilliant Cut

The Round Brilliant Cut diamond, which is the modern diamond cut that we know of today, was first introduced in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky. The Round Brilliant Cut has 58 facets that are symmetrical and maximize the light return for beautiful brilliance. With the advancement in technology came the ability to cut diamonds more precisely, providing the consistency that consumers have come to expect from modern jewelry. With that consistency came the rise in use of the Round Brilliant Cut diamond in engagement rings.

Since the Round Brilliant Cut diamond was discovered, it has remained the most popular diamond cut. It is used in everything from pendants to wedding rings. During the 1950s, this cut was most widely seen as a solitaire in very minimalistic settings to give focus on the diamond itself. Today it is used in all types of jewelry designs and this modern round cut is available in sizes as small as 0.25mm!
Now that we understand the metamorphosis of the round diamond, let’s take a look at how this diamond is cut. The first step in cutting any diamond is selecting the rough. Rough diamonds are evaluated based on the size, shape, and clarity. The diamond cutter will analyze the stone in order to determine how to get the largest and most clean (without inclusions) stone from the rough that is available. The rough is then cleaved (divided into smaller pieces) using a laser or diamond saw. This is when the rough is cut into general shapes to prepare for the next step of the process, which is called girdling. The diamond is rotated against another diamond on a lathe in order to create the round shape that the stone will ultimately have.

Once the general round shape is outlined, the stone will be faceted. On a Round Brilliant Cut diamond there will typically be 57 or 58 facets. During faceting, the cutter divides the stone into the crown (33 facets) containing the table, which is in the center of the stone. The pavilion is the lower part of the diamond and contains 24 facets. The cutter angles the facets to maximize light return in the diamond, enhancing the sparkle of the stone. The diamond is then polished to eliminate any scratches and to ensure everything is symmetrical. After the diamond cutting process is complete, the stone is then inspected and graded for all of the specific attributes you see on a typical diamond grading report.

The round diamond has a lot more history than most people would think, spanning multiple centuries. It has gone through quite the evolution and many iterations in order to end up where it is today. From the Old European Cut, Single Cut, Old Mine Cut, Transition Cut, and the Round Brilliant Cut, the round diamond has changed significantly in terms of shape, number of facets, and techniques used for cutting.

It’s possible that the evolution of the round diamond isn’t over. As technology continues to advance, there is potential for even more changes in diamond cutting techniques. Artificial intelligence is leading the way in many industries, disrupting life as we know it, and the jewelry industry is no exception. There may be new ways of shaping diamonds that even further increase light performance, creating stones that sparkle even more brilliantly than the modern Round Brilliant Cut. Only time will tell what the round diamond will look like in years to come.