Engagement Ring Terminology Explained
Shopping for an engagement ring can be an overwhelming experience–and not just financially. There are so many aspects of the process that most people aren’t aware of prior to their first trip to the jewelry store for that once in a lifetime purchase. Not only are there many metal options to choose from, but the jeweler will also probably ask you questions about what style of ring you’re looking for, what setting style, how thick you want the shank to be, etc. Now you’re in a world of unfamiliar terminology, which can be easily overwhelming to anyone. Which is why we've put together this detailed guide and explanation of engagement ring terminology, helping you make an informed decision when choosing an engagement ring.
The metal may be the first thing you notice visually about an engagement ring, especially the color. So let’s evaluate different metals and the terminology involved in choosing one.
Gold: Gold is a versatile metal available in various colors, such as yellow, white, green, and rose. It comes in different karats, with 24-karat being the purest and softest form. Common karats include 10kt, 14kt, 18kt, and 22kt. The karat indicates the proportion of gold vs. alloy. A higher karat means higher gold content, softer metal, and higher cost. If budget is a concern, opting for lower karat gold like 10kt or 14kt can be a more affordable option.
Engagement Ring Metals
When choosing gold, it's important to know what alloys are mixed with it, especially for those with sensitive skin. Different colors of gold are achieved through various alloys:
Yellow Gold: Made by mixing pure gold with copper and silver, with higher karats containing more gold and appearing more yellow.
White Gold: Created by mixing gold with white metals like nickel, palladium, or silver, and often plated with rhodium for a bright white finish.
Rose Gold: Formed by combining gold with copper, giving it a pinkish hue.
Green Gold: Less common, made by mixing gold with silver, copper, and sometimes cadmium, resulting in a greenish tint.
While gold is a beautiful and traditional choice for jewelry, it has some drawbacks. Gold alloys can cause allergic reactions in some people. Since gold is a fairly soft metal, especially in higher karats, it can be prone to scratches and wear, meaning prongs or engraving may need maintenance more often than a sturdier metal. White gold will also require periodic rhodium plating to maintain its white appearance.
Platinum: Platinum is a dense, durable metal, making it perfect for everyday wear and a great choice for those with active lifestyles. It is naturally white and does not require plating, remaining hypoallergenic and suitable for those with skin allergies. Due to its rarity, platinum is generally more expensive than gold.
Platinum does have some disadvantages. It is only available in a white color, so if you were hoping for a yellow or pink metal color, platinum is not the best choice. It also feels heavier on the hand, which some people might find uncomfortable. Platinum's rarity and weight contribute to its higher cost, which might not fit all budgets, especially when considering the center stone and design.
Center Stones
The next obstacle that can have some seriously confusing terminology is the center stone. Whether you’re choosing a diamond or a gemstone, you'll recognize the use of similar terminology.
A jeweler should always share with you a grading report for the stone you’re looking to purchase, which will list out all the details about the stone. For this purpose, let’s discuss diamonds.The most important aspects to consider are what jewelers call the 4Cs (Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight). There will be other information listed, such as the shape (round brilliant cut, oval, princess, asscher, pear, or marquise). The measurements are given in millimeters and include length, width, and height for fancy shapes, or diameter and depth for round diamonds.
The report also shows the diamond’s proportions as percentages, often with a diagram. These proportions help determine the cut grade, which is important for the diamond's brilliance and overall appearance.
Cut: The cut grade is based on the diamond’s proportions. Different grading labs use different terms, such as "ideal" or "excellent," but they generally mean the same thing. Knowing the lab's grading scale is crucial to understanding your diamond's quality.
Color: The color grade measures the diamond’s lack of color. The GIA's color scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Diamonds graded D-F are colorless, while those lower on the scale show increasing color. Diamonds with some color can still be beautiful, especially when set in yellow or rose gold. There are also fancy color diamonds with intense colors like yellow, blue, or green, which are graded on a different scale and often very expensive due to their rarity.
Clarity: Clarity assesses how clear or flawless a diamond is under magnification. The clarity scale ranges from Flawless (no visible inclusions) to Included (inclusions visible to the naked eye). A higher clarity grade usually means a higher price. The grading report often includes a map of inclusions and their types to identify your diamond.
Carat weight: The carat weight will be shown as a decimal, like 1.02ct, which means the diamond is just over 1 carat—a popular size for engagement rings. 
If you’re looking at a diamond with inclusions (and most do have them), the jeweler may want to point them out to you. It’s important to understand the different types of inclusions and what their presence may mean for the stone you’re choosing.
Pinpoints: Small transparent crystals inside the diamond, usually not affecting its appearance.
Feathers: Tiny fractures that look like feathers, which can impact both appearance and durability depending on their size.
Clouds: Clusters of pinpoints creating a cloudy look, with the impact varying based on their size.
Crystals: Small mineral spots inside the diamond, with their effect depending on their location and size.
Needles: Long, thin crystals resembling needles, generally invisible to the naked eye unless very large.
The Different Parts of an Engagement Ring
When discussing the ring design, the jeweler may refer to different parts of the ring. To help you understand what they mean–and so you end up with the ring you’re envisioning–let’s review the relevant terminology and how they can differ in terms of design.
Shank: The shank is the portion of the ring that goes around your finger. Depending upon the style, it can vary greatly in width and design. Some common styles include:
- Plain Shank: A simple metal band that does not vary in thickness around the finger, and without additional stones set.
- Split Shank: The band splits into two or more strands as it approaches the center stone.
- Tapered Shank: The band narrows as it approaches the center stone and becomes thicker at the bottom of the finger.
Setting: The setting is the part of the ring that holds the center stone, and can also vary in design depending upon the center stone you choose and the style you’re looking for. Common types of settings include:
- Single Prongs: One piece of metal per prong.
- Double Prongs: Prongs split into two pieces for aesthetic purposes.
- Claw Prongs: Prongs that come to a sharp point for a modern look.
Bezel Setting: Bezel settings offer a modern style by surrounding the stone's girdle with metal. This secure setting protects the stone from damage, making it ideal for active lifestyles or professions with frequent hand use. However, it allows less light to enter the stone, potentially reducing its brilliance. The metal color can also affect the stone’s appearance.
- Full Bezel: Metal completely encircles the diamond.
- Semi-Bezel: Metal encircles part of the diamond, leaving some of it exposed.
Head: The head is the upper portion of the ring that holds the center stone. It includes the prongs or bezel
Gallery: The gallery is the area beneath the center stone that can be seen from the side view of the ring. This can be plain or include engraving or stones to add additional complexity to the design.
Bridge: The bridge is the part of the ring that connects the shank to the head. It's often left plain but can also be set with accent stones.
Shoulder: The shoulder is the part of the shank that rises to meet the center stone.
Accent Stones: Accent stones are smaller stones that are set along the shank or gallery to add extra sparkle to the ring.
Engagement Ring Styles
When it comes to ring styles, there are many different options to choose from, but just to give you an idea, here are some of the most common:
Solitaire: The solitaire is the most popular engagement ring style with a “less is more” approach, showcasing the diamond's beauty. It is called a solitaire because the diamond is set alone in the center of the ring. It never goes out of style and offers versatility with wedding bands, as any stackable band typically pairs well with a solitaire engagement ring.
Halo: The halo engagement ring has become popular in the past decade, and most designers include it in their collections. This setting features a circle of smaller diamonds or gemstones around the central diamond, enhancing its brilliance and making it appear larger.
Three-Stone: Three stone rings are perfect for both engagements and anniversaries. Traditionally symbolizing the past, present, and future, they were often used for anniversaries but are now popular for unique engagement rings. 
Now that you’re well versed on all engagement ring terminology, you can shop confidently. You can now choose the perfect center stone and determine what type of design you prefer, all while communicating to the jeweler with proper industry terms.
From selecting the right metal to understanding the center stone's 4Cs, consider yourself educated and prepared!